Ama Dablam Climb
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Ama Dablam: The Climb

Ama Dablam Base Camp (4650m)

Once Base Camp is reached, tents will be pitched and the Puja ceremony will be held.  This is a religious ceremony held by a Buddhist Lama, flags are raised and the team and its equipment are blessed.  Training on the use of fixed ropes will take place.  In addition this period is important for rest and acclimatisation.

Ama Dablam Base Camp
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Photo acknowledgement:, Kevin Adams


Puja Ceremony
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Photo acknowledgement:,
Andrew Wexler

Advanced Base Camp (5150 m)

A day trip will be made to Advanced Base Camp (ABC), also known as Yak Camp.  The trip will take approximately 3 to 4 hours, following a long ridge-slope, crossing a boulder field and then scrambling up rock slopes before arriving at the South-West ridge where camp will be set up.  From ABC, there are impressive views of the surrounding 5000 m peaks.  The pass, Mingbo La, can also be seen from here.

Camp I (5400 m)

The journey from Advanced Base Camp to Camp I takes approximately 3 to 4 hours.  A large ridge system at the head of the Mingbo Valley is traversed.  The slope here is steep but the climbing is not too technical.  The trip to Camp I gives one a sense of the "exposure" for which Ama Dablam is renowned. Camp is set up at the base of large boulders on the ridge itself.

Camp I
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Photo acknowledgement:

Approaching Camp II
Photo acknowledgement:

Camp II (5750 m)

The trip to Camp II takes 4 to 5 hours.  A horizontal rock ridge is traversed and several pinnacles have to be rounded.  Although the vertical height of this section of the climb is only 350m, there are enormous drop-offs on either side of the ridge with unbelievable exposure (not for the faint hearted).  The route is fixed with climbers attached to the rope via jumar and sling.  The views along the way are stunning.  At the end of the ridge, the "Yellow Tower" is negotiated and once at the top, tents are pitched on the few available ledges.


Camp III (6230 m)

This part of the climb is fairly technical and takes 8 to 10 hours.  A steep snow ridge leads to the "Grey Tower" which is a 20 m rock step.  Three pitches in an ice chute are required to regain the ridge.  The steepness through the ice corridor reaches up to 50 degrees.  A 2nd rock step takes the climbers to Mushroom Ridge which then leads to the upper face.  Camp III (snow camping) is placed on a terrace of snow and rock to the side of the hanging glacier Dablam.


Summit (6828 m)

The trip to the summit and back to Camp III takes in the region of 7 to 9 hours.  The steepness of the climb, on snow-ice, is sometimes greater than 40 degrees.  A number of pitches to the side of Ama Dablam leads to snowfields which remind one of freshly ploughed fields.   These, in turn, lead up to the summit which has dramatic views of Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Mount Everest and the entire Khumbu Valley.

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Website designed & updated by Gail Hochreiter
Page updated: 02/08/2015